MaxFM WAINGAPU – SUMBA – The morning started early, with activity bustling in the kitchen by 5 AM as we prepared for a long journey. We needed to leave Waingapu early to reach Waitabula in time for an afternoon flight from Lede Kalumbang Airport.
Our son, Sebastian, had to return to Surabaya that day. Although we would have preferred a flight from Waingapu, the cost was too high. The fare difference between Waingapu and Tambolaka exceeded one million rupiah, prompting us to choose the more economical route.
We were also happy about departing from Tambolaka, as it meant we could visit our hometown, Bondo Kodi. The trip from Waingapu to Tambolaka was smooth, and we arrived at Lede Kalumbang Airport right at check-in time, around 2 PM.
After Sebastian entered the check-in area and proceeded to the departure lounge, we set out for Waikuri, with plans to continue to Bondo Kodi.
We took the main Watabula Kodi route rather than the northern coastal route. Two years ago, I had taken the northern coast from Tambolaka to Waikuri.
We followed the main road to Kodi, passing through Jalan Sapurata, turning right onto Jalan Lukas Dairo Bili, and passing the Kalembu Kaha village office. We then headed towards Bila Cenge and turned north onto a quiet, smooth road, reaching the main road from the northern route before turning left to reach Waikuri Beach, Kodi, Southwest Sumba. The 43.1 km journey from Tambolaka to Waikuri took about an hour.
Meeting Local Artisans at Waikuri Market
Waikuri Beach was bustling with activity, coinciding with a holiday. The seawater filled the Waikuri Lake, attracting both locals and visitors for a swim. Some swam across the lake, surrounded by coral rocks and the sound of southern Sumba waves crashing against the cliffs separating the lake from the open sea.
Young people climbed high stairs and performed flips into the water, adding to the lively atmosphere.
The market near Waikuri Lake was also busy, with many visitors buying various items along the path to the lake and the cliffs by the southern Sumba coast.
At the market, I met Raimundus, a 60-year-old artisan who has been selling his handmade accessories for seven years. He explained that his sales help cover household expenses.
“When the lake is busy, my income goes up. On a busy day, I can make 500,000 rupiah,” Raimundus said on Sunday (14/07/2024), showing his accessories made from local materials like buffalo horns, wood waste, pig tusks, and other local resources.
Raimundus used jackfruit tree leaves to smooth his horn carvings, creating a natural polish that made them shine and attract buyers.
In Raimundus’s hands, horn carvings were repeatedly polished with jackfruit leaves in a steady rhythm.
“This is a natural method to smooth the carvings, so when displayed or purchased by visitors at Waikuri Lake, the horn carvings look shiny and attract buyers,” Raimundus explained to MaxFM.
As the day grew late, we left Waikuri Lake, paying an affordable entrance fee before heading out.
Two Crocodile Heads of Coral Frame the Sunset at Mandorak
To enjoy the sunset, there’s a place not far from Waikuri that’s definitely worth a visit: Mandorak Beach.
The route to Mandorak Beach is quite straightforward. After leaving Waikuri, drivers take a right turn for about 1.5 km and then enter a gravel road leading to Mandorak Beach.
That afternoon, Mandorak Beach was fairly crowded. When we arrived, two other vehicles with out-of-town visitors were already parked.
As the sun was setting, Mandorak Beach was also filled with local fishermen preparing their boats for night fishing in the famously turbulent waters of southern Sumba.
The rising tide at Mandorak Beach seemed to joyfully welcome the visitors. In a flash, tourists and their groups scrambled to find the best spots for photos and videos at Mandorak Beach
The sun began its descent, perfectly framed between two large rocks resembling crocodile heads. The waves of the southern Sumba sea crashing between the rocks enhanced the beauty of the evening, prompting everyone to capture the moment with their cameras and phones. All visitors left with joy, having experienced the clear skies, stunning sunset, and mesmerizing blue sea of Mandorak Beach.
Finding the Way to Bondo Kodi: Don’t Rely Too Much on Google Maps, It Can Lead You Astray
After leaving Mandorak Beach, we headed to Kodi using Google Maps. This was my first journey to our family’s home in Bondo Kodi via Mandorak. The roads were smooth, and we drove quickly, but since it was already dark, I felt uncertain about the direction and relied on Google Maps for guidance.
About 4 km into the trip from Mandorak to Kodi, Google Maps repeatedly instructed us to “make a U-turn.” This constant prompting made us all doubt if we were on the right path, especially in the darkness and without encountering any other vehicles.
Eventually, we turned back towards Waikuri and continued towards Waitabula, realizing we had taken the wrong route. Twice we had to reverse course because Google Maps kept instructing us to make a U-turn.
To ensure we were on the correct path, the only option was to ask the locals along the Waikuri-Mandorak-Kodi route, who were actually our relatives.
The locals around Waikuri directed us towards Mandorak, advising us to take the smooth asphalt road leading to the luxury Cap Karoso Hotel in southern Sumba. Since none of us in the vehicle knew the correct route to Bondo Kodi, we stopped at Cap Karoso Hotel for assistance.
Fortunately, we met Yanto Kondo, an employee at the hotel, who kindly guided us to the right path to Bondo Kodi.
Yanto Kondo: “Where are you headed, and whose house are you visiting?”
Maria Dengi: “I’m going to Bondo Kodi, to our parents’ house, Mr. Frans Dengi!”
Yanto Kondo: “Oh, I know Mr. Frans Dengi’s house; it’s right near mine. Wait by the side of the hotel, and I’ll lead you with my motorbike. Just follow me.”
We were truly fortunate to meet such a kind person!
The road from Cap Karoso Hotel to our parents’ house in Bondo Kodi was winding, passing through large villages. Despite the darkness, we could still see rows of large stone graves and traditional Sumba houses with towering thatched roofs.
When we arrived at Mr. Frans Dengi’s house in Bondo Kodi, we realized that the route we had taken also passed through our own village, Kampung Kalibu Atur.
Upon arriving at the house in Bondo Kodi, the atmosphere was emotional. This was a reunion for Maria Dengi, or Ina (the younger sister), who hadn’t visited the family there in 20 years. She had also brought her daughter, Grace Kabora, who was now in junior high school.
That night, the air in Kodi was piercingly cold, chilling us to the bone. Exhausted from a full day of travel and the confusion caused by Google Maps, we fell into a deep sleep, ready to embrace a new day. [HD]
Translator : Itha Priyastiti
